Sunday July23, Martin and Olivier along with Thassinda( business coordinator for ML) started our road trip to Boffa. I tried Googling Boffa and found many interesting facts about his coastal fishing center but I could not find out about the main reason we were heading there- which was about Boffa being a port through which of thousands jus of African enslaved people walked down the "steps of no return" to the awaiting slave ships. Guinea has a history of being a port for slave traders from Portugal Brazil and the Americas and all the information I found was about other ports but nothing about Boffa.
The ride was long but so interesting to see the country and more so as Martin and Olivier helped fill in gaps of history, Colleen being a history teacher added much to the story for me. On the way we stopped in a village of thatched houses to pick up Miriam, a ML student who is trying to start her own business with the help of the small grants ML gives to women entrepreneurs. So Thassinda was with us to talk to her about some decisions that needed to be addressed. Both women very young and very determined.
Rain fell on and off and after about 3 hrs we arrived to a marshy space with a church and a small house where our guide John met us. Noone else, no other visitors were there nor do any really come there, hence no renovations have been done- there is no funding for this space of historical signifiance. The guide spoke only French so everyone had to help me out. My HS French helped a little and the guide ( can not spell his name sorry) used a lotof body language to help. There were chickens and roosters and little dogs roaming the area. The rain came down and ponchos came out - my waterproof shoes and socks (thanks Jen) worked!
We walked through wet overgrown marshy like grass and stopped at a man made water hole. This was dug by slaves who needed water and no one was doing this for them, The water was briney in the dry season and unusable but in wet season rain water would take the salt out, It was literally just a hole with stones as a retaining wall. He said the water was deep when full.We then saw an area clearly made into a four corner cache which was used to store weapons.
We continued on through the high wet grass nearing the water edge, He pointed out an area that had an underground prison for slaves being punished( yes i shook my head as well). The guide has longed to have the underground prison rennovated but again no funding. The massive tree certainly has seen much and often slaves were tied to it and the other stumps dotting the water's edge were used as well. Then we walked down a bit leading to the water. These are where the steps going into the water are known as the steps of no return. There were about 4 actual stone steps going into the water and after that the slaves had to make there way to a little inlet where they were taken and stuffed like sardines into slave ships. Our guide said the numbers vary as many died before boarding or were shot for trying to escape. Along with the slaves, the ships took sugar cane and tobacco plants which became a big industry in the southern states. He mentioned several well known people who have traced their roots to Guinea and the slave trade: Carl Lewis, Pele, Michelle Obama and he belives Alex Haley"s story originated in Guinea but I can not say that is fact. We spent a lot of time on that shore and saw a few canoes and a bigger fishing boat pass by.
We went into this church which was the first Christian church in the area. We left this site and went to the first Catholic church , which is in operation. We met the Deacon who was very mildmannered and soft spoken, I asked if any Jews live in Guinea ( as I found a Chabad in Kilgali) he said no and I was probably the only Jew in Guinea as we speak.Catholics only/make up 4% of the population. Guinea is a Muslim country (I hear the call to prayer 5 times a day in my room)
Then we headed to Miriams home to drop her off and meet her family. The thacthed roof home was cool inside and her family very warm and welcoming. They spoke their native language and French, we shared some rice and chicken and once again on our way home taking bets as to how long it would take. I lost. We drove through roads with the worst holes I had ever experienced maybe some in Rwanda were the same or worse- But our driver Yalo, was unbelievable how he navigated. THEN THE TRAFFIC OMG No lights, no signs just thousands of motos, motorcycles, tuk-tuks ( 3 wheel taxi) PEOPLE everywhere, and everyone jockeying for position. At one point Yalo got off the one way road and drove the wrong way - which I undertand is ok during busy times. I actually felt so secure with this driver I was just amazed at his skillful driving- epescially coming from someone who does not like to drive- people were arguing, yelling but i saw no fights and no accidents which was remarkable. we arrived back at 10 pm. Safe from our "African masssage"
Today we begin our full week teaching. we start with staff members. The kids arrive around 7-8:30 for breakfast of bread and a cup of a milk and coffee like beverage. Lunch is rice with sauce for the kids.
Ill post photos separtely. There are a lot btw in the fishing village Colleen and I had o wear wrap around skirts as no woman can wear shorts or pants in the village, There are signs written about large fines! Similar to visitng the Kotel
